
With the frame almost ready to rock it was time to fang it home from work and get this puppy built.
Note my workshop, its not really a workshop, in fact its a garage that's structurally unsound and will quite possibly fall over in the next year or so. This is why you won't see my car, my bikes or any of my decent tools living in there for an extended period of time. All things going well a new versatile garage should be up by the beginning of summer so I can really get stuck into the bikes in a far more clinical manner.
First step was to slide on the hope seat collar, this is where you find out how good your paint work is. If the collar doesn't fit on, you've used too much paint and it'll require some judicious use of some snadpaper, if the paint's too thin it'll scratch up.
Everything went to plan and the seapost slid in sweetly, next job was the bottom bracket. At this point you really want to head down to the local bike shop if you haven't got the tools yourself to get the bottom bracket chased and faced. This cleans the threads out and makes a nice sqare interface for your external bottom bracket, if you don't do this there are two possible outcomes:
1. You'll constantly blow out bottom bracket bearings because they're not running parrallel
2. You'll cross thread the frame because the paint is gunking up the threads in the frame.
Both outcomes suck. You can do it without the chase and face but there's a big difference between being ghetto and just plain rough.
Headset next, and this is where I said a small prayer of thanks to the bike gods for blessing me with a headset press and rubber mallet. If you do a lot of switching around on your bikes you should buy these two tools. now.

Headset in and forks bolted on. This is what I call the first phase done, it's often overlooked because a lot of home mechanics are in such a rush to get the bikes done as quick as possible but the crank and headset bearing are arguably two of the hardest working pieces of kit on your bike, and the ones that make the most annoying noises if they aren't working properly.

Onto the drivetrain. Forte tensioners work really well. They can get a bit sketchy and rub on the pulley wheel cage a bit with a 1 1/8th chain if the chain isn't correctly aligned.
XT cranks were burgled from the Nomad and mated to a deore 32T middle ring. Truvativ do a good SS-specific ring that's cheap and cheerful but the shops usually don't keep them in stock so I was making do.
I leave the chain until last, I don't know why, I think it has something to do with not getting grease all over the rest of the bike before its finished.
Everything else was bolted on in quick order and not much later we had a complete bike (minus the chain).

Next step is to put the chain on, cut down the brake cables, get it stickered up and finally tuned.